David Flanagan came from a long line of seafarers and thought learning
to surf would be easy, despite the fact he was scared of the ocean and
fast approaching middle age. As a journalist living in an island
community, he had intended to write a light-hearted account of his
progress towards surfing nirvana, but instead found himself facing
danger, doubt and the spectre of childhood bereavement in an often
wild and unwelcoming sea. Meanwhile on land, and back riding a
skateboard after a 30-year-gap, David found himself facing bemusement,
ridicule and the wrath of the medical profession. But his decision to
turn back the clock to the 1970s would also prove remarkably life
changing and, occasionally, utterly catastrophic. Warm, funny,
touching and honest - with a strong dose of adrenalin - Board explores
loss, ego, fear and fatherhood, charting a quest for inner peace
against a backdrop of thundering Atlantic waves. At its heart, Board
is an inspiring story about accepting some limitations and overcoming
others, while completely ignoring common sense and social convention.
"Board tells it as it is. It s like this: don t stand on the
sidelines. Don t let society s prejudices stop you living your dreams.
Do confront your demons. Do skate, do surf. David Flanagan s tale is
an inspirational and honest hymn to getting out there and living your
life." Alex Wade, author of Amazing Surfing Stories, Surf Nation and
Wrecking Machine.
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Produktdetaljer
ISBN
9781905916948
Publisert
2016
Utgiver
Vendor
Fledgling Press
Språk
Product language
Engelsk
Format
Product format
Digital bok
Forfatter