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Biografisk notat
Eugenia Paulicelli is Professor of Italian and Womenâs Studies at The Graduate Center and Queens College of The City University of New York, USA, where she is the Founder and Director of the Concentration in Fashion Studies. She is author, editor and co-editor of 13 books and monographs. Among her latest publications: Italian Style: Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age (Bloomsbury: 2016); The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies (with V. Manlow and E. Wissinger, 2021).This book demonstrates why fashion is such a great lever to activate our thinking about politics â politics of space, material and the body. The holistic understanding of such multiple politics, grounded in historical studies of moving clothes and moving images, emerges here forcefully from Eugenia Paulicelliâs study of Fascismâs cultural genealogy. Her book exposes Italian Fascism as an insidious ideology of the everyday, of a âway of life', and she strongly reminds us that Fascism may change its guise but, alas, has yet to go out of fashion.
Ulrich Lehmann, The New School, New York, USA
This is a timely update to a book that at once responds to the sociopolitical circumstances of the past, but also explains their continuing relevance in the present. New content added since the first edition twenty years ago has transformed a classic text into a comprehensive guide to how fashion has shaped Italian identity under fascist rule and beyond.
Julia Petrov, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada
This illuminating book offers a critical reinterpretation of the cultural role of the fashion industry under Fascism and the regime's policies. Seamstresses, journalists, artists from the Futurist movement and cinema were key players in a transformation that helped shape the identity of Italian fashion. Eugenia Paulicelli offers an innovative guide to Fascist-era fashion and its controversial legacy.
Emanuela Scarpellini, University of Milan, Italy
The new edition of Eugenia Paulicelli's pioneering <i>Fashion under Fascism </i>provides a rich and deeply illuminating analysis of the cultural, social and economic processes of Mussolini's Italy. Informed by a wealth of new research, it deals authoritatively with male as well as female fashion, the role of cinema, the birth of Italian style and the legacy of fascist fashion. The book is an indispensable work for anyone interested in modern Italian culture and society.
Stephen Gundle, University of Warwick, UK
Looking at the dark history of Italian fashion by focusing on the impact of 1930s Fascism, this is the second edition of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text.
In Fashion under Fascism, Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Alongside interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, this newly expanded revised edition includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. It sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics and is an essential read for all those interested in the history of fashion, politics, national identity and the culture of fascism.
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Preface: Fashion/Fascism: Odd bedfellows?
Chapter 1: Introduction: Fashion/Fascism
Fashion and historiography
Methodology. Thinking Fashion, Rhythm and Spatializing Time
Object and Intersectionalities
Beyond the Black Shirt: Continuity and Change
La moda è una cosa seria. Fashion is a Serious Business
Gianna Manzini and her Approach to Fashion
Structure and Sources
Chapter 2 Fashion/Fascism: Why and How it Matters
Origins of Italian Fashion?
Fashion and totalitarianism
Uniforms and Fashion under Fascism
âRead my Pinsâ
Chapter 3 Per una moda italiana: From the Interwar Years to Fascism
Imagining an Italian Style: Between Modernity and Tradition
Regional Dress and Fashion during Fascism
Rosa Genoni: Fashion and Feminism in 1910s
Performing Dress and Gender: Futurist Avant-gardes between Nationalism and Revolution
From Balla to Thayhat: Transgressing Gender and Genres in the New Language of Dress
The Fascist âNew Woman.â Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion
âAn Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create itâ
Chapter 4 The Language of Fashion: Narratives, Style and Womenâs Voices under Fascism
The Discourse on Fashion under the Fascist Regime: the 1936 Italian Commentary Dictionary of Fashion by Cesare Meano
Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Womenâs Writing in the Fashion Magazine Bellezza
Dress, Style and the National Brand: Meanoâs Commentary on Nationalism
Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity in Meanoâs Commentary
Chapter 5 Cinemoda and Cinelandia under Fascism
The Istituto LUCE Fashion Film: Education, Entertainment, Propaganda
Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime
From Hollywood to France and then to Italy: Alta Moda in Alessandro Blasettiâs Contessa di Parma (1937)
Grandi Magazzini, Department Stores and Standardization
Dressing the Mass Market: I Grandi Magazzini (1939) by Mario Camerini
Chapter 6 Nationalizing the Fashion Industry?
The Intelligent Fibers: Between Innovation and Autarchy
Fashion and Fascism for Export: Race, Colonialism, Empire. From Ethiopia to New York
Italy at War. Autarchic Textiles and Clothing at the 1941 Venice Exhibition
Looking Back: The National Conference on âClothing and Autarchy.â Turin, June 1940. Italian Fashion between Alta Moda and Confezione (Ready to Wear)
Chapter 7 Conclusions
Fashion and Fascism after Fascism
Interrogating the Past. Fashion between History and Memory:
Appendices:
Interview with Micol Fontana by Eugenia Paulicelli (June 2000)
Gianna Manzini, âFashion is a Serious Businessâ
Alba De CĂŠspedes, âEve and the Feathersâ
Illustrations from the fashion magazine Bellezza
Notes
Bibliography
Index