"... a cogent and compelling critique of how the move toward neoliberal economic policies has affected the lives of formal (those with fixed stalls) and informal (street) vendors." - Arthur D. Murphy (American Ethnologist) "Weaving the background histories and theoretical discussions throughout the more narrative storytelling presentation, results in a thoughtful ethnography that contributes much to the field of anthropology as well as to the body of literature focused on markets in Latin America."<br /> - Alana Nicole DeLoge (Bolivian Studies Journal) "By being transparent about his methodology and research experiences, he successfully breaks down conventions associated with academic writing. The result is a highly readable and engaging ethnography that showcases the daily struggles of men and women in the Cancha. . . . This book will be of value to Latin American specialists from multiple disciplines, including history, anthropology, and political science, as well as students seeking an inside look at the promises and pitfalls of ethnographic research in informal spaces." - Nicole L. Pacino (Canadian Journal of History) "Goldstein’s narrative writing style, joined with short chapters and excellent accompanying photographs, make this book accessible to students at all levels. - Kathleen Schroeder (Journal of Latin American Geography) "The book is a great read for scholars interested in Latin American cities, in issues of the street, in the informal economy, but also for scholars conducting original ethnographic work in diverse urban settings." - Veronica Crossa (Journal of Latin American Studies) "Goldstein’s book is a must read for all students of informality and politics in cities of the South."<br /> - Claire Benit-Gbaffou (International Journal of Urban and Regional Research) "A strong example of engaged anthropology. . . . This is a lovely ethnography that illuminates important elements of 'informality,' markets, and neoliberalism."<br /> - Miriam Shakow (Journal of Anthropological Research) “An excellent study and a wonderful read. . . . Goldstein not only covers most of the important detail of a Latin American informal-sector market but does so in a way that allows one to feel the essence of its dynamism, creativity, and truth.” - Peter M. Ward (Latin American Research Review)
Acknowledgements xiii
1. The Fire 1
2. Writing, Reality, Truth 10
3. Don Rafo 15
4. The Informal Economy 18
5. Nacho 25
6. The Bolivian Experiment 33
7. Meet the Press 42
8. The Colonial City: Cochabamba, 1574–1900 46
9. Conflicts of Interest 54
10. Decolonizing Ethnographic Research 58
11. A Visit to the Cancha 64
12. The Informal State 74
13. The Modern City: Cochabamba, 1900–1953 80
14. Market Space, Market Time 87
15. Carnaval in the Cancha 95
16. Security and Chaos 102
17. The Informal City: Cochabamba, 1953–2014 108
18. Convenios 117
19. Political Geography 122
20. Fieldwork in a Flash 131
21. Women's Work 139
22. Sovereignty and Security 148
23. Resisting Privatization 154
24. Don Silvio 161
25. Character 167
26. Exploitability 175
27. Market Men 182
28. Webs of Illegality 190
29. Men in Black 194
30. At Home in the Market 200
31. Owners of the Sidewalk 207
32. The Seminar 214
33. March of the Ambulantes 222
34. Complications 230
35. The Archive and the System 235
36. Goodbyes 240
37. Insecurity and Informality 246
Epilogue 252
Notes 257
References 293
Index 313