“Peering through a gendered lens, Clutario exposes the complex roles Filipinas played within empire and the fraught establishment of the Philippine Commonwealth. . . . Writing about the wives of politicians, embroiderers, beauty queens, and socialites, Clutario renders beauty as a complex weapon. In the hands of her Filipina subjects, it is deployed with both tenderness and aggression.” - Alice Sarmiento (Rappler) <p>"A unique book that delivers fresh insights into the American colonial period in the Philippines through the politics of fashion and beauty regimens."</p> - Mina Roces (Fashion Theory) "<i>Beauty Regimes</i>, with its emphasis on a specific period in Philippines history, could serve several academic purposes. The book forms an ideal historical analysis for those studying colonialism, empire, and nation-building, especially of Spain, the US, Japan, and the Philippines. Since fashion is placed in close relation to power, whether that is the struggle for diplomatic status between Filipinas and Americans or the distinction between elite Filipinas and female labourers, this book greatly contributes to historical gender studies."<br />   - Thao Bui (Journal of Gender Studies) "I believe Clutario’s <i>Beauty Regimes</i> is a book that any historian of material culture, spectacle, class, empire, or identity in both the global south and sites of resistance should not only read but keep close by for reference." - Brayden Rothe (Journal of World History) "Clutario has written a fascinating and useful book. By bringing together dress, fashion, and beauty under the framework of 'beauty production,' she provides a new way to understand the workings of global empire and colonialism. This book will be an important addition to graduate courses and of interest to historians of empire, beauty culture, and gender." - Sarah Steinbock-Pratt (Pacific Historical Review)

In Beauty Regimes Genevieve Alva Clutario traces how beauty and fashion in the Philippines shaped the intertwined projects of imperial expansion and modern nation building during the turbulent transition between Spanish, US, and Japanese empires. Clutario takes readers through vivid scenes of beauty’s collision with empire: from sartorial confrontations between white women and Filipinas about beauty and power, the spectacular Manila Carnival Queen pageants, and the global industry of Philippine embroidery and lingerie to Manila’s high fashion designers and the exploitation of unfree labor in colonial prisons and schools. Drawing on English, Spanish, and Tagalog archival sources, Clutario demonstrates the way beauty shaped political debates among colonial administrators and nationalists and defined the everyday lifeworlds of working-class women, fashion designers, and elite Filipinas. Beauty operated as both regimen and regime in the Philippines, where empire became a thing of beauty. By demonstrating how beauty and fashion powerfully determined individual and cultural practices as well as national and transnational politics, Clutario offers new ways of understanding the centrality of beauty in the making of imperial and nationalist power.

Duke University Press Scholars of Color First Book Award Recipient

A Study of the Weatherhead East Asian Institute, Columbia University
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Acknowledgments  ix
Introduction. A Queen Is Crowned  1
1. Tensions at the Seams: Petty Politics and Sartorial Battles  19
2. Queen Makers: Beauty, Power, and the Development of a Beauty Pageant Industrial Complex  63
3. Philippine Lingerie: Transnational Filipina Beauty Labor under US Empire  107
4. Beauty Regimes: Structure, Discipline, and Needlework in Colonial Industrial Schools and Prisons  139
5. “The Dream of Beauty”: The Terno and the Filipina High-Fashion System  183
Epilogue. Protectionism and Preparedness under Overlapping Empires  223
Notes  237
Bibliography  287
Index  319
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Produktdetaljer

ISBN
9781478017004
Publisert
2023-03-03
Utgiver
Duke University Press
Vekt
635 gr
Høyde
229 mm
Bredde
152 mm
Aldersnivå
P, 06
Språk
Product language
Engelsk
Format
Product format
Innbundet
Antall sider
352

Biografisk notat

Genevieve Alva Clutario is Andrew W. Mellon Assistant Professor of American Studies at Wellesley College.