“Peering through a gendered lens, Clutario exposes the complex roles Filipinas played within empire and the fraught establishment of the Philippine Commonwealth. . . . Writing about the wives of politicians, embroiderers, beauty queens, and socialites, Clutario renders beauty as a complex weapon. In the hands of her Filipina subjects, it is deployed with both tenderness and aggression.” - Alice Sarmiento (Rappler) <p>"A unique book that delivers fresh insights into the American colonial period in the Philippines through the politics of fashion and beauty regimens."</p> - Mina Roces (Fashion Theory) "<i>Beauty Regimes</i>, with its emphasis on a specific period in Philippines history, could serve several academic purposes. The book forms an ideal historical analysis for those studying colonialism, empire, and nation-building, especially of Spain, the US, Japan, and the Philippines. Since fashion is placed in close relation to power, whether that is the struggle for diplomatic status between Filipinas and Americans or the distinction between elite Filipinas and female labourers, this book greatly contributes to historical gender studies."<br /> - Thao Bui (Journal of Gender Studies) "I believe Clutario’s <i>Beauty Regimes</i> is a book that any historian of material culture, spectacle, class, empire, or identity in both the global south and sites of resistance should not only read but keep close by for reference." - Brayden Rothe (Journal of World History) "Clutario has written a fascinating and useful book. By bringing together dress, fashion, and beauty under the framework of 'beauty production,' she provides a new way to understand the workings of global empire and colonialism. This book will be an important addition to graduate courses and of interest to historians of empire, beauty culture, and gender." - Sarah Steinbock-Pratt (Pacific Historical Review)
Duke University Press Scholars of Color First Book Award Recipient
A Study of the Weatherhead East Asian Institute, Columbia University
Introduction. A Queen Is Crowned 1
1. Tensions at the Seams: Petty Politics and Sartorial Battles 19
2. Queen Makers: Beauty, Power, and the Development of a Beauty Pageant Industrial Complex 63
3. Philippine Lingerie: Transnational Filipina Beauty Labor under US Empire 107
4. Beauty Regimes: Structure, Discipline, and Needlework in Colonial Industrial Schools and Prisons 139
5. “The Dream of Beauty”: The Terno and the Filipina High-Fashion System 183
Epilogue. Protectionism and Preparedness under Overlapping Empires 223
Notes 237
Bibliography 287
Index 319